Yosemite Adventures

Well, it rained. For the first time in the years we’ve been coming here the rain came down in sheets. We’re staying in lower pines, which is kind of like being packed in to watch a drive-in movie. Tents slumping into the muddy earth, wispy clouds tumbling over the glacial peaks, the early morning call of a camper warning that a bear is wandering nearby — that’s what it’s been like. It’s been cold, too. Waking up and finding fingers warm enough to strike the stick match and light the portable stove to boil the water that gets poured into a melitta filter with ground French Roast from Starbucks was more difficult than I thought it would be.

But there is no replacing the hot, creamy coffee in the mouth on a cold morning like that. Because of the smog in the valley, morning fires have been banned, so we we either stay in our tents until the sun warms the earth or we stand outside, make the coffee and deal. We have no right to complain, in fact, as there are flush toilets, showers and roads all nearby. This is not roughing it. But one becomes accustomed to creature comforts and I realize I am accustomed to them. I like my own place, my warm apartment, my high speed internet connection.

Today we have rented bikes and we’re planning on tooling around the village all day to see what kind of trouble we can get into. We might even find our way up to Mirror Lake. It’s not Greasy Lake but it’ll do. It’ll do.

They Don’t Make Landmarks out of Ordinary Places

My friend Rain Perry wrote a great song called Yosemite (purchase here from Amazon – which I now prefer compared to itunes) that compares a rough growing up to Yosemite.

Yosemite

Behind the backstop
And at the breakfast table
On the school bus
And other assorted torture chambers
The temperature drops
The snow falls
The glacier forms

Ten thousands tons of ice
Are crushing you
Into a beautiful, one-of-a-kind boy
The thaw will come
And you will be
Yosemite
Year by year
Hour by hour
Insults scrape
Lonelinesses scour
Leaving erratics
And striations
A glacial terrain
Ten thousand tons of ice
Are crushing you
Into a beautiful, one-of-a-kind boy
The thaw will come
And you will be
Yosemite

I’ve seen the brightest sparks
Glowing from the faces
Of my friends whose lives have been
The biggest mess
They don’t make landmarks
Out of ordinary places
Only landscapes that have seen
The most distress

Someday you’ll dare
To open your heart
And you’ll melt one like mine
Because you are worth knowing
Worth loving
After all

Ten thousand tons of ice
Are crushing you
Into a beautiful, one-of-a-kind boy
The thaw will come
And you will be
Yosemite

Rain’s wonderful song is really the one to play as your car moves through the windy, tree-crowded road into Yosemite valley. Either that or a recording by ceo (aka, angels singing really loudly). This will be our third trip up there, where the water is clean and the mountains mighty. The waterfalls are said to be their most swollen because of the snowmelt. This is a good thing but it also means we can’t river raft. We’ve only been able to do it once in three years and it was the most fun we ever had up there.

In fact, I sold my brother-in-law on going with us on this very notion. Now I’ve had to coax him with promises of spit hot dogs and beer.

Yosemite valley is a curious mix of too many people, too many hungry bears and a very diligent ranger staff. Let’s not forget the swarming mosquitos. It is a vacation, still, right out of another decade, like you can imagine hitching up the Airstream to your ’55 Chevy and making the long trek up there, pitching your pup tent and having a regular ’50s vaca.

The too many people part is really going to hit home THIS year because we’re staying in the valley below rather than the upper site, Wawona. We wanted to experience it for once — even if it’s more crowded. This is where I myself had my best Yosemite experience as a teenager wherein I had my first kiss.

Yosemite, or any kind of camping trip, is much more fun if you’re a kid. My sisters and I were lucky enough that other families took us camping every summer to different lakes. They did all of the cooking and planning packing. We just had to show up and have a good time. This is why I always insist on letting my daughter and her friends have fun while I slave over the hot stove, scrub out the egg pans, sweep out the tent — you know, women. It always comes down to women keeping the thing going. Men tend to be good at firewood and pitching tents.

The menfolk going this year include our old friend Robert, who has gotten the reservation every year so far and managed to get five nights in the valley, and my brother-in-law, who is joining us for the first time this year. We’re all hoping for a stress free week and a half.

And that, my friends, is that. I shall see you on the other side (as always, hoping this isn’t my final blog entry so that it must hover here long after I’m gone and some poor asshole will have to decide whether to keep it up here or not. One hopes one’s last words are going to be profound — excuse the melodrama here in the final moments of this posting — it’s not like I”m going to Mt. Everest. But last words are never profound are they. They’re more like “water please?” Or “Oh fuck!” Or “hold my beer.”

This is How the World Ends

“Sit there. Count your fingers. What else. What else is there to do? I know how you feel. I know how you feel. And you’re through. Sit there, and count your little fingers, you’re unhappy little girl blue.” Janis Joplin streams out of the speakers of my Macbook pro. Next to me, my iPad2 is charging. I briefly reach into my purse to grab my iphone because I am hoping there is a text message on it. And there is. The New York Times sends me a news alert on my Ipad about Obama and the Middle East. On Twitter, every other tweet is about the Rapture. The supposed end of days that was to occur yesterday, which was just another day. Just another day. And you know, billions of years tells us that the world turns. Living forms evolve and die off but life as we know it, life as formed so many years ago we can’t possibly comprehend its entire point — it goes on.

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Cannes Day One

Traveling to foreign countries is always a mind-altering experience. You know? Seriously? Forget lighting up, tuning in and tuning out or turning on or whatever they called it in the Sixties. If you live in America, traveling outside of this country will blow your mind.

Because it all happened in a blurry dream state, I barely remember the past 24 hours. I know that we woke up at 3am in Los Angeles and drove to LAX, parked in a reliable airport parking spot which shuttles you to the airport. I know that they dropped us off at the Delta terminal but that it was the wrong terminal and so we had to roll our baggage half way around the airport (“It’s just about a five to seven walk. I do it on my lunch break every day.”) to Alaska Air, which partners with Delta. I know we waited about 45 minutes to check-in and get on board. This, because of heightened security measures which did not let you check things in automatically.

An instragram shot of Alaska Air's check-in line

 

I know that we then flew to Seattle, where we had about a four layover. We wandered around that giant airport — which has its own subway system — and I know, at some point, I used their free wi-fi. I know that we got on the plane there, Air France this time, and flew seven hours to Paris. I know that we had our neck pillows and our eye covers and our blankets. I know I tried to sleep that whole time but really just laid there, with my eyes closed.

Emma looking like a prisoner of war

I know that, at some point, they began serving breakfast. Somehow we would get to Paris, wait in two more very long lines before finally getting on a plane to beautiful, peaceful, extraordinary Nice. And we would rent a car and get lost driving around the hills behind Nice. We would drive a long time before realizing we were lost. We would find ourselves on toll roads with no euro, having to use the intercom to speak to the workers to explain in English (which none of them speak) why we had no euros. What morons they must have thought we were. One guy just let us through without paying. An alarm went off. I hope I don’t get charged a fine.

But through all of this, a running dialogue is going on in my head as I explain to my daughter yet again why I am making yet another stupid person mistake: “This is how you learn things,” I said. “You make a mistake and you learn something.” And it’s true. We keep learning things as if we’re headed for some kind of plateau of knowledge – because THEN, maybe then we will have figured it all out. Only to then die. Yes, life. Ah, life.

Painted nails and nearly black hair - ready for Cannes

She looked at me like she felt sorry for me. Poor mom. Someday she’ll realize how cool I am. Right? Right? Kids are funny when they travel. They always want to come until they actually start realizing what a hassle it is. Things are made so comfortable for Americans. We really are like those soft, chubby passengers on that giant cruiser in the sky in Wall-E. Just hook us up and take our money.

But when you travel to other countries you see that it’s so not about you, especially here in France in parts that don’t cater to American tourists. I keep saying “je suis Americaine!” as if it’s some excuse as to why I’m so clueless. They just blink back at me: “And I’m supposed to care because…?” In America we are mostly raised to respect the almighty dollar. That’s really what customer service is all about. You know they can’t really treat you that badly because it will cost them in the end. In France and Italy, the two foreign countries I’ve traveled in most, they don’t give a crap about that. They appreciate your politeness more. It’s hard to get your mind around. In America, it’s backwards: the customer is always right. Here, it’s more like, the nicer you are the better service you will get. Act like an entitled American and be prepared to have people treat you poorly.

It is surreal.

Today is officially the first day here. We will drive from Juan Les Pins, where we ended up staying, to Cannes proper, where I will fight the crowds for a parking spot, then walk into the Palais du Festival. The South of France, the coast near Cannes, has many beautiful villages. Like Italy, there are those the tourists flock to and those the tourists don’t yet know about. All up and down the coast — except Cannes and places that everyone already knows — you can find the prettiest, quietest, sweetest little French towns. And those are really what France is all about, I dare say. I am acting as though I’m an expert when in fact, this is my third visit to France and two out of three of those times I was only in the tourist areas. Now we’re staying in Juan Les Pins, which really doesn’t have many Americans. The reason being, most people who comes to the Cannes Film Fest prefer to stay within walking distance. Now that I’ve rented a car, I know the reason why: it’s god-awfully expensive.

For the amount of money the car cost, plus the hotel, we could have stayed in one of the expensive hotels close to La Croisette. Oh well: live and learn. Make mistakes, lots of them, and then learn more.

Onward and upward. Day One.

 

Life and Other Catastrophes

Fact: some people are good at life. Others are bad at it. Count me in the latter group. As I talked to my good friend Jeff Wells yesterday on the phone, as he helped me try to work out what to do since I’d so royally screwed up my housing plans for the Cannes Film Fest he said, “you know, travel planning isn’t exactly your …” And he didn’t even need to finish the sentence. No, travel planning, planning at all, isn’t my…

I’d thought I was way ahead of the game this year. I’d gone on VRBO and knew I was hitting it a few months early so that I could find exactly the kind of little place in Cannes I dreamed about. In my sad little fantasy, I would be staying in the Le Suquet area of Cannes, the medieval village, instead of a nice B&B I stayed in last year.

I found just the one. A wood fireplace, a view of the sea, a sweetly designed kitchen. The perfect place. The perfect place only someone with great planning habits could muster. I did it all early enough, that was key, because in a few months there would be nothing affordable, and nice, left. In a few months, you’d be looking at places that cost around $4,000 for ten days.

But not me. I was ahead of the game. Or so I thought. Because I’m me, a tragically stupid person who makes all of the wrong choices (“you know, Sasha,” my friend Emily told me in high school, “You’ll always be a fuck up.”) I neglected to check the map. I assumed that Le Suquet could only apply to the medieval village in Cannes when, in fact, I just figured out it applies to all old towns in France! Though I’d picked a place in an old town, it was, as it turned out, 45 miles outside of Cannes, which meant about a half-hour’s drive in and out of Cannes every day.

But the real deal-breaker, besides the costly gas, was that I was bringing Emma. And the thought of leaving her behind, that far away, all day long, in a foreign country was, well, not a good arrangement. But guess what? I’d already paid for it. Cash gone. When I begged and pleaded with the owner she informed me, out of a courtesy, she would refund half of my money. So, like $500. The other $500 I’d have to watch swirl down the toilet bowl.

So goes the adventures of a dumb person.

Starting Sunday, I will be reporting from Juan-Les-Pins, which is just four miles outside of Cannes. I have rented a car – which immediately makes me think there are parking tickets, fender benders and other minor horrors in my future. It’s a manual shift! I haven’t driven one of those in a very very long time. Like 20 years or something like that. “Don’t worry, we can walk to the curb from here.”

On the upside? Everything IN France is kind of nice.